Elizabethan Fashion: What You Need to Know

May 23, 2025 3 min read

Costumes Elizabethan 1565-1569

Elizabethan fashion wasn’t just about looking good—it was about making a statement. Think drama, decadence, and a clear visual hierarchy (aka: you knew who had money the second they walked in). From ruffs the size of dinner plates to fabrics that practically screamed “royalty,” clothing in this era was all about showing off status, wealth, and a hint of political allegiance.

Let’s break it down, layer by elaborate layer.

Layers, structure, and a whole lot of formality

First up, Elizabethan fashion was structured. We’re talking corsets, farthingales (that’s the wide hoop skirt situation), and heavy skirts layered over petticoats. It wasn’t about comfort—it was about silhouette. The goal? That perfect cone-shaped figure: small waist, broad hips, commanding presence.

Every outfit started with a linen chemise or shift, worn under everything else. Then came the bodies (corset), a farthingale, sleeves (sometimes detachable), and finally the gown. It was complex. And getting dressed definitely wasn’t a one-person job.

Fabrics and color rules

Sumptuary laws—literal laws about who could wear what—meant that fabric and color choices were heavily policed. Rich velvet? Reserved for nobility. Deep purple or crimson? Only the elite could touch it. So, if you saw someone in golden brocade with blackwork embroidery, you knew they weren’t just stylish—they had power.

Lower classes wore simpler fabrics like wool or linen, dyed with natural colors. But even those looks had their own charm, especially when accessorized with care.

Iconic Elizabethan fashion pieces

  • The ruff: That big, pleated collar. Sometimes starched to the high heavens. A fashion flex and a way to keep your chin up (literally).
  • The partlet: A sheer or embroidered covering worn over the chest or shoulders. Decorative and modest.
  • Slashed sleeves: Layers beneath were pulled through slits in the outer fabric. Pure drama.
  • French hoods & cauls: Headwear mattered. Hoods, nets, and even veils completed the look—and often matched the gown.

Basically, there were no “throw on and go” outfits here.

Status, symbolism, and subtle shade

beautiful woman wearing a dress with ruff collar

Fashion in the Elizabethan era was layered with meaning. Certain colors symbolized different things—black was serious and elegant, while red was bold and powerful. Pearls symbolized purity, and embroidery often told a story.

And yes, women’s fashion during the Renaissance often doubled as political commentary. An extra-wide farthingale or a heavily jeweled bodice might show allegiance to Queen Elizabeth I’s court, or even a subtle rivalry with another noble family. Fashion? Always a little shady.

Looking for inspo from across the era? Our blog on women’s fashion during the renaissance breaks it down region by region.

How to wear it now

You don’t need to be royalty (or wear ten layers) to channel Elizabethan vibes today. Look for:

  • Statement sleeves
  • Rich textures (velvet, brocade, lace)
  • Structured bodices
  • High necklines or layered collars

And if you're dressing up for a faire, photoshoot, or just want to embody your inner duchess, we've got you. Our collection of dresses perfect for historical fairs lets you live your Elizabethan dreams with a modern twist—no sumptuary laws required.

Final thoughts

Elizabethan fashion wasn’t subtle—and that’s what made it so powerful. It was theatrical, symbolic, and heavily rule-bound, yet somehow still creative. Whether you’re into it for the history, the aesthetic, or the drama (we get it), there’s a lot to love—and a lot to wear

And yes, ruffs might be impractical now. But statement fashion? Still very much in.