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So you want to channel your inner Queen Elizabeth I? Or perhaps you're planning a Shakespeare-inspired costume that needs that perfect finishing touch? Whatever your fantasy, an Elizabethan ruff collar can transform an ordinary outfit into something truly magical. Don't worry if you've never attempted historical costuming before—this guide will walk you through creating your own ruff without the royal budget!
If you've ever seen portraits from the 16th century or watched period dramas set in Elizabethan England, you've definitely spotted these distinctive pleated collars encircling the necks of nobility and wealthy merchants. But what exactly is a ruff, and why on earth did people wear what essentially looks like a fabric frisbee around their necks?
Ruffs began as simple ruffled edges on shirts and chemises in the mid-16th century. Over time (as fashion tends to do), they grew increasingly elaborate and exaggerated. By Queen Elizabeth I's reign, ruffs had evolved into those dramatic circular pleated collars that we immediately associate with the period.
Originally, ruffs served as practical garments that protected expensive clothing from body oils and could be easily removed and washed—a bit like how we might use napkins today, except worn around the neck! Eventually, they became status symbols, with their size and elaborateness indicating wealth and social standing. For a more detailed brief history of ruff collars, you can explore the fascinating evolution of this iconic accessory over on our blog.
Today, you'll spot ruffs in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, theatrical productions, Halloween costumes, and even in high fashion (designers periodically rediscover and reimagine historical elements). They're perfect for adding dramatic flair to your costume without requiring sewing skills worthy of the royal court's seamstress.
Before we dive into the pleating madness, let's gather our materials. The good news? You won't need anything fancy or expensive!
Traditional ruffs were made from fine linen, but modern cotton works perfectly well. You'll need:
This provides structure and support for your ruff:
I tend to botch any project requiring precision, so I always buy extra materials. Trust me, your future frustrated self will thank you!
Ready to transform yourself into Elizabethan royalty? Let's break this down into manageable steps.
Start by washing, drying, and ironing your fabric to remove any sizing chemicals that might interfere with pleating.
Cut your fabric into one long continuous strip about 10-15 cm wide. The length will determine how full your ruff will be—aim for at least 3-4 times the circumference of your neck for a modest ruff. For a dramatically full ruff (very Elizabeth I), you might need 6-8 times that length!
For a polished look, hem both long edges of your strip. A simple fold-over hem works perfectly. If you're using organza or other synthetic fabric that doesn't fray, you can skip this step or use a small zigzag stitch along the edges.
The base collar is the unsung hero of ruff-making—without it, your beautiful pleats would flop sadly around your neck.
Measure around your neck where the ruff will sit, then add about 5 cm for overlap. Cut your stiff material to this length and about 5 cm in width.
Cover the stiff material with fabric (a simple piece of cotton works) by wrapping it around and stitching along the edges. This makes the collar more comfortable to wear and gives you something to attach your pleats to.
Attach your chosen fastening method to the ends of the collar. Ribbon ties work well for an authentic look, but hook-and-loop fasteners are much easier to manage when you're wearing your costume.
Now for the fun part—creating those iconic pleats that give the ruff its distinctive appearance.
Working in small sections (about 10-15 cm at a time), start accordion-pleating your fabric strip. Each pleat should be about 1-2 cm wide. Pin as you go to keep the pleats in place.
Once you've pleated a section, carefully press the pleats with an iron to set them. Using starch spray at this stage will help your ruff maintain its shape longer. I've found that holding the pleats in place with clothespins while ironing works brilliantly (though mind your fingers!).
Continue pleating, pressing, and pinning until you've worked through your entire strip of fabric. It's perfectly fine to take breaks—this is quite meditative but can be time-consuming!
For an extra touch of authenticity and visual interest, consider adding lace or trim to the edges of your pleated fabric.
Traditional ruffs often featured delicate lace edges, but ribbon trim, contrasting fabric, or even a simple picot edge will look lovely. Really, this is where you can add your personal flair!
Carefully stitch your chosen trim to both edges of your pleated strip. Do this before attaching the ruff to the collar to make it easier to manage. Work slowly and don't pull too tight, or you'll distort your beautiful pleats.
Now comes the moment of truth—bringing your ruff and collar together!
Position the pleated strip along the upper edge of your collar base, with the pleats radiating outward. The inner edge of your pleated fabric should align with the upper edge of the collar.
Using small, careful stitches, attach the inner edge of your pleated strip to the collar. Work your way around the entire collar, maintaining even distribution of the pleats.
Once the ruff is attached, you may need to re-press the pleats or add a bit more starch for structure. Adjust the fullness by spreading the pleats evenly around the collar.
A few tricks and tips can make the difference between a floppy disappointment and a ruff worthy of a royal portrait.
The hallmark of a great Elizabethan ruff is its ability to stand proudly around the neck rather than wilting.
For maximum authenticity (and stiffness), traditional ruffs were heavily starched using wheat starch. Modern alternatives include:
Store your ruff flat or on a curved surface similar to a neck to maintain its shape. Hanging can cause the pleats to stretch and droop over time.
Your ruff doesn't have to be historically perfect—make it work for your needs!
For comfort or dramatic effect, adjust the width of your fabric strip or the depth of your pleats. A smaller ruff might be 5-8 cm wide when pleated, while an elaborate court ruff could extend 20 cm or more from the neck!
While white was most common historically, coloured ruffs can beautifully complement your costume. For fantasy interpretations, consider dip-dying the edges or using metallic fabrics for a truly magical effect.
While you're creating your perfect Elizabethan look, don't forget to consider what you'll wear with your magnificent ruff! We offer period-style dresses for every figure that provide the perfect foundation for your historical or fantasy ensemble.
Let's be honest—ruff-making isn't always smooth sailing. Here are solutions to common problems:
If your pleats look uneven after attaching to the collar, you can gently adjust them by re-pressing with an iron or redistributing the fullness around the collar.
If your ruff feels scratchy or uncomfortable, add a soft fabric lining to the inside of the collar or round the edges more carefully. Your neck will thank you after hours of wearing your costume!
If your ruff won't stand up properly, try reinforcing the pleats with additional starch or consider adding concealed supports like plastic boning or floral wire along the collar edge.
Creating your own Elizabethan ruff might seem intimidating at first glance, but it's actually quite achievable with patience and these step-by-step instructions. The beauty of DIY costuming is that you can adapt historical elements to suit your modern needs, whether you're aiming for museum-level accuracy or simply want to add a touch of Tudor drama to your next fancy dress party.
Remember that historical fashion was rarely perfect—even Queen Elizabeth's ruffs probably had the occasional wonky pleat! Embrace the handmade quality of your creation; it adds character and authenticity.
Are you planning to make an Elizabethan ruff for an upcoming event? We'd love to see your creations! Share your photos with us on social media and inspire others in our community to explore the magical world of historical costuming. And if crafting isn't your thing but you still want to live your Renaissance fantasy, explore our ready-made options that capture the spirit of the age with modern comfort and ethical production values.
Now go forth and ruffle some feathers with your magnificent Elizabethan creation!
